Under Construction

Haltech Install

Here's a list of items you will need to complete the haltech install:

-a few different colors of 12 gu wires (red black grey)

-electrical tape

-Wire loom (all sizes)

-soldering iron, solder and shrink wrap

-storage trays to organize the nuts and bolts

-all necessary sockets wrenches and pliers to remove all the stuff on top of the  engine.

1)    Pull Stock ECU

The first thing that needs to be done is to pull the stock ECU and main engine harness.  To get to the harness to begin unplugging all the connectors, the UIM needs to be removed.  Once the UIM is removed, you can start disconnecting all of the connectors.  This includes the fuel injectors, solenoids, and all the sensors surrounding the engine.  It is a good idea to label all the connectors as you pull them off.  At the ECU, located behind the kick panel you will need to disconnect all the yellow connectors that go into the ECU.  You will also have to disconnect  a white and a blue connector which are also attached to the main engine harness.  There is a metal "L" shaped guard that is bolted down against the main engine harness where the harness exits the cockpit and enters the engine compartment.  There is one nut holding this bracket against the harness.  Once this is removed, the harness is ready to be pulled through from the engine compartment side. 

Once the harness is pulled out completely, lay it out on the floor and get out the wire cutters.  You will need to salvage a few things before you toss it out for good.  First find the white connector.  There should be 8 wires one it, Y/R, G/Y, G, L, O, LG, W, and Y/W.  Cut the Y/W wire leaving a few inches from the connector.  Next, go to the blue connector.  There should be 10 wires, Br/W, Br/B, B/G, B/W, B/L, B/Y, R, Br, Y, W/L.  Cut the Br/W, Br/B, B/G, B/W, B/L, B/Y wires at the connector.  You will not need these wires.  Also cut the W/L wire leaving a few inches from the connector.  You will need this wire later. 

With all these wires cut, you should now be able to separate the strands of wire from the main engine harness that are attached to the  blue and white connectors.  On the other end of the blue connector should be the connectors that go to the transmission.  These go to your speed sensor and will allow your speedometer to work.  Now set  this harness aside and go back to your main engine harness.  You will need to salvage a whole bunch of connectors from this harness.  The first connectors are the injector connectors.  Since you labeled all your connectors these should be easy to locate.  Make sure when you cut these connectors off of the engine harness you leave a few inches of wire on the connector so you can easily splice the connector to the Haltech harness.  Next there is a single wire connector that has a yellow/white wire going to it.  This connector went to a sensor that is just under the oil filter.  You will need to salvage the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) connectors.  There are two of these one is white and the other is gray.  The white connector has green and black wires going to it and the gray connector has red and white wires going to it.  You will also need your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) connector if you are going to use your stock TPS.  This is the connector that sits on the firewall side of the throttle body and has three wires going to it, brown/white, brown/black, green/red, and green/black.  I used mine and it works fine.  If you are going to use your stock water temp sensors and air temp sensors you are going to need to cut off these connectors as well.

2)    Pull stock harness

3)    Lay in new harness

4)    Install  haltech sensors (water, air)

5)    Cut stock connectors from stock harness (water, air, BAC, CAS, TPS,              injectors))

6)    construct and install block off plates

7)    wire CAS, igniter, fuel pump, injectors, pwms,

8)    mount MAP, fuse block, solenoids

AC Wiring How To

Since I've installed my Haltech E6K I've been having some trouble
setting up the AC. I finally had some time this weekend to troubleshoot
it and here's what I've found. If anyone else has been having AC issues
with the Haltech this may help.
 

First, the AC works independently of the ECU. The only reason it runs
through the ECU is because the ECU disables it at WOT to give you a few
extra horses to pull out of a jam or whatever situation you may be in on
the road. The simplest way to get your AC working properly and
independent of the ECU is to jumper the violet wire (1E) to the
yellow/black wire (1L) at the yellow connector that used to go into the
stock ECU. The AC will work perfectly and you will even keep the
thermosensor operational so you don't have to manually turn the AC off
when it freezes up. The only problem with this setup is that the AC
will no longer disengage when the accelerator goes to WOT. If this
doesn't bother you then you are finished  :)
 

If you want the ECU (E6K) to disengage the AC when the car is under WOT
or when the engine reaches a certain RPM then you will need to use one
of your PWM outputs. The first thing you will need to do is jumper 1E
and 1L as mentioned above. Then you will need to remove your glove
box. This can probably be done without removing the glove box but it
may be a little more difficult to reach the connector and the glove box
comes out with only two screws. With the glove box off, there will be a
white connector with 4 wires going in (violet, violet/pink, white, and
blue/yellow. On the other side of the plug there will be a white jumper
wire jumping the blue/yellow and white wires together. Cut or remove
this jumper wire. Take one of your PWM outputs and connect it to the
white wire going into the connector. Now setup your PWM to "AC" and
setup when you want the AC to disengage. This will let your AC operate
with an operational thermosensor thus eliminating the need to manually
cycle your AC to prevent it from freezing up. The only downfall I see
to wiring the AC this way is that when you shut the blower fans off, you
will have to also shut off the AC button or the AC clutch will remain
engaged. The stock setup uses the same ground to turn on the blower
fans and the AC. In order to be able to disengage the AC clutch without
disengaging the blower fans too, there needs to be two separate grounds
controlling each device. One for the AC and the other for the blower
fans. By hooking up your PWM to the AC, you are creating a separate
ground to the AC compressor relay. This will now allow you to disengage
the AC clutch at WOT.

If for some reason you are out of PWM outputs or don't want to use the ECU to control the AC, there is another option.  You can use an RPM switch, which is normally in the closed position, and install it between the 1E and !L wires described above.  The RPM switch will shut off the AC compressor when the engine reaches a specified RPM.  This will prevent possible damage that may occur to the compressor by being revved at very high RPMs.  The RPM switch can be purchased at Summit or Jegs for around $50.

I hope this helps all the do it yourselfers out there who are installing
these Haltechs by yourselves. I will be posting this "how to" on my
website soon. I hope it helps. I know it's cleared a lot up for me.